EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project
Fundamentals (Part 5 of 6) — In part 5 of this series, Jesse and I share our tips and pitfalls for picking a project. As Jesse says in this episode, picking the right projects is a key part of having a satisfying climbing experience. We cover some of our best projecting experiences, as well as times we botched it, and we try to pass on what we learned along the way. Have fun projecting!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-5
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:03:26) – Plans for season 2 of Fundamentals!
(00:04:12) – Why picking the right project matters
(00:05:41) – Jesse’s experience on Turbulence V11/12 in Leavenworth, WA
(00:07:05) – My experience on Eternia V11 in RMNP, CO
(00:09:39) – Jesse’s epic to climb his first V10 in OR
(00:11:34) – Times I’ve botched it with picking projects, and a good experience on Crime Wave 5.13d at Smith Rock, OR
(00:15:58) – Jesse’s experience with Boxcar 5.13c at the Rat Cave, OR
(00:17:04) – Steven’s Tip #1: If you are trying to do the hardest thing you have ever done, make everything else easy
(00:18:09) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Ask yourself the ABC questions: Is it accessible, badass, and challenging?
(00:21:03) – Bonus Tip: Know thyself
(00:22:08) – Steven’s Tip #2: Remember that grades are a relative difficulty marker and they’re not absolute
(00:24:01) – Jesse’s Tip #2: A V-grade is a poor substitute for motivation
(00:27:16) – Steven’s Tip #3: Think about what your last 3 months, 6 months, and year have looked like in terms of your climbing
(00:27:56) – Steven’s Tip #4: Think about what the 1 and 2 month lead up time to the project is going to look like (and choose a pre-project if you can)
(00:29:55) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Once you’ve committed to trying to do something, it’s ok if you only want to do it because of the grade/difficulty
(00:33:55) – Steven’s Tip #5: Pick a challenge that excites you
(00:37:27) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Overcommitting to a tick list, and not leaving room for serendipity
(00:40:40) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Picking a limit project that is a pain in the ass in one or more ways
(00:42:13) – Jesse’s realization from trying The Teacup V13 in Leavenworth, WA
(00:43:00) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Letting all of your other climbing suffer because you are just trying one project (I.e. Be careful about oneitis!)
(00:45:35) – Bonus Tip: Take the things you see on Instagram with a grain of salt
(00:48:00) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Picking a limit project with a single low-percentage move
(00:50:45) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Listening too much to other people (Don’t let yourself be put in a box!)
(00:53:02) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not adjusting the grade appropriately to find the correct level of challenge
(00:54:20) – Jesse’s Pitfall #4: Picking a project just because it’s there
(00:54:50) – Jesse’s Pitfall #5: Not giving yourself a break between hard projects
(00:56:37) – Summaries are in the show notes!
(00:57:17) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Learn to pay attention to that little voice in your head that tells you what’s inspiring
(00:58:04) – Steven’s Top Tip: If you trying to do the hardest thing you’ve ever done, stack all the cards in your favor
