EP 31: Maya Madere — Windsurfing, Endurance Training for Boulderers, and Trusting Intuition
Maya Madere is a 21-year-old comp kid from Austin, TX. We talked about attending school at Stanford and studying computer science, the endurance training program that helped her transition from bouldering to sport climbing, gunning for the 2024 Olympics, competition strategies, outdoor goals, intuitive training and eating, power screams, and windsurfing.
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Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/maya-madere
Nuggets:
1:40 – Windsurfing
8:44 – Maya’s transition from comp boulderer to outdoor sport climber
12:06 – How Maya feels about her current climbing
13:29 – Off-season climbing, coronavirus, and taking a break
16:42 – Outdoor climbing vs. training, “quantity over quality”, self-coaching, and doing too much vs. too little.
21:15 – Campusing, endurance training with Solomon Barth, and up-down-ups
24:28 – Up-down-up details
30:00 – Practicing climbing more quickly
32:56 – How Maya mixes endurance with maintaining bouldering strength and power
35:19 – Psicobloc
38:26 – Neverending Story, and why Maya would choose competition climbing over outdoor climbing (if she had to pick one)
41:08 – Where Maya sees her climbing going moving forward
42:14 – Paying her way around the world through competitions, and why it wasn’t sustainable
45:12 – The Boulderfield Master Series, compromise between school and competition rock climbing, and how Maya sees herself in relation to other top competitors
47:37 – Computer Science
50:27 – 2024 Olympics
53:36 – Maya’s most memorable comp, expectations, and why she prefers to be the underdog
57:15 – Making competing routine
59:50 – Practice comps and mock comps
1:02:21 – Breathing exercises and competing and altitude
1:04:45 – Cardio
1:06:54 – Speed climbing, and lead vs. sport
1:08:44 – Diet and weight
1:14:17 – Lifting, systematic vs. intuitive training, and mental energy
1:19:55 – Breakfast, vegetables, and intuitive eating
1:22:42 – Crafted Energy bars
1:24:56 – Dessert
1:26:05 – Maya’s go-to Evolv shoes
1:28:31 – Identifying as an athlete
1:30:18 – Maya’s outdoor and competition goals
1:32:33 – Leisure time, Waldorf school, and crafts
1:34:43 – Gratitude, privilege, and wanting to share
1:38:08 – Instagram, BLM, and using her platform to share information
1:41:33 – Power screams
